Kenya With Kids – Our Stay With a Maasai Tribe
Disclaimer: Maji Moto Maasai Cultural Camp kindly gave us a discounted rate on staying with them. Our thoughts and opinions are authentic and honest as always.
The occasional glimpse of bright red clothing flashing through the bush made it even more real that we were in Maasai land. Hairs standing up on end, a strange sense of nostalgia took over, for something we had only seen in books and online but for as long as we can remember it was a sight we had longed to behold with our own eyes. We finally arrived at Maji Moto Maasai Cultural Camp where we would be spending the next 5 days living alongside an authentic Maasai tribe, being immersed in their way of life, learning about their culture and traditions along with completing our first-ever safari in the Maasai Mara.
What is Maji Moto Maasai Cultural Camp?
Founded by Maasai warrior and Community Chief Salaton Ole Ntutu, Maji Moto Maasai Cultural Camp is an intricately and delicately woven community, which gives those intrigued to see the world through the eyes of the Maasai, a place to stay alongside an organic Maasai tribe. It allows visitors the incredible opportunity to immerse themselves into the Maasai way of life, learning about their fascinating culture and traditions and has been positively recognised by The Lonely Planet, National Geographic, and The New York Times.
The beauty in its setup is that the foundations of the camp stretch far beyond just simply offering tourists a place to stay, and focus on a wide range of worthwhile projects, including supporting healthcare in Maji Moto, providing free education to the young people there, as well as ethical employment opportunities.
Why did we choose to visit?
We’d spoken of the possibilities of visiting a Maasai tribe for many years, yet when the reality of planning to visit Kenya was well underway, we quickly discovered that there were many ethical factors that needed to be taken into consideration. First of all, we needed our experience to be culturally immersive, allowing us to stay alongside a tribe as opposed to having a quick hour visit on the back of our safari. It wasn’t right to only ‘view’ the Maasai tribe members but rather be amongst them, and let their way of life influence ours. This was the first thing that stood out about Maji Moto Maasai Cultural Camp, where we were permitted to stay in situ for as many nights as desired.
We’d heard there were many ‘fake’ Maasai villages set up to draw in the tourists, eager for a quick fix to see a Maasai warrior, buy some brightly coloured jewellery, and take lots of pictures. These were in fact staged performances, where non-Maasai men, women, and children dressed in the Maasai attire and pretended to be official tribe members. This raised lots of questions on who was profiting from their ‘performances,’ clearly appearing unethical in terms of responsible travel, being more like a human museum, and very exploitative. Maji Moto Maasai Culture Camp however, sits sympathetically among a living breathing Maasai community, where local children attend school in the village, learning about their Maasai culture intermixed with modern-day schooling and the Woman’s village protects and empowers more than 40 Maasai women. Salaton has carefully and respectfully crafted an olive branch between his people and the outside world, where profit made from visitors directly impacts his people in an extremely positive way. This was without a doubt, the route we knew we wanted to go down.
Where is Maji Moto Maasai Cultural Camp?
The camp is located halfway between Narok town and the Masai Mara National Park, at the base of the Loita Hills.
How to get there
There are a few different options to get to the camp:
Private transfer
This would probably be the best-suited transport option if travelling with children. You can arrange to be picked up by the camp, from either your hotel in Nairobi, Nairobi airport, or from the Masai Mara’s camps/ lodges, or even the airstrip there.
Local bus
This was the transport option we chose to take, when the camp (who knew we were eager to keep our travel budget down) informed us, that we could catch a 3-hour bus from Nairobi to the town of Narok, which is the closest town to Maji Moto Maasai Cultural Camp. So we travelled there by bus, with the locals, with Carmen sharing sweets and giggles with the children on board, keeping her entertained most of the way. The bus arrived in Narok, and waiting to collect us as promised, was the camp owner’s partner, Susan. The huge smile on her face, accompanied by her excitement for what was in store for us over the coming days ahead, matched perfectly in reality with her enthusiasm clearly felt through the emails she and I had exchanged over the previous months in the planning stages of our trip.
En route back to Nairobi, Susan drove us from the camp, back to Narok town, helped us buy our bus ticket back to Nairobi, and also kindly waited with us until the bus arrived. We sat in a coffee shop with her and continued our wonderful conversations from the camp. She is without a doubt, one of the nicest, most sincere people we’ve ever met, very interesting and inspiring to talk to, and definitely helped make our stay so unforgettable!
On arrival at the camp, the magic unfolded: the Maasai team stood proud and strong, waiting to greet us with a handshake for J and a gentle touch on the head for Carmen and myself. Already we were in awe of their attire, wearing their shukas (shawls) and colourful beaded jewellery. They then showed us their traditional welcome dance and song, in which harmonies, deep reverberations, and high-pitched shrieks echoed around the grounds, perfectly setting the tone for our stay. There was no doubt about it, the next five days were going to be incredible, we instantly knew that!
Camp Accommodation
One thing we love about this place is the accommodation options, which give visitors a choice of where to sleep, depending on their travel budget and preferred sleeping styles. Below are the choices on offer:
Traditional Maasai Manyattas
This is the accommodation option we chose to stay in, being built by the very women who live in the Women’s village on Salatons land. They are based on the original Maasai Manyattas (mud huts) with the added bonus of having raised memory foam beds (with mosquito nets), solar lighting, and stone floors. They have on offer 2 cottages, with double beds and a private terrace each, and another 2 cottages with three single beds in each, with a shared terrace. Roughly 20m from the cottages are the camp’s shared toilet/ shower block.
Due to us travelling with a 2-year-old who was used to sleeping in a cot at home, we knew she would most likely roll out of the bed, so to eliminate this risk, we bought our Phil and Teds travel cot and simply put it on top of her single mattress in the Manyatta, which worked absolutely fine. We were very comfortable at night and due to visiting in the cool dry season had no issues with nighttime temperatures, so there was thankfully no need for aircon or fan. The bedding provided was warm and cosy and we placed Carmen’s blanket on top of her inflatable mattress to make it soft and she then slept in her baby sleeping bag.
Luxury Cottage
If you wish to stay at the camp but have a bit more luxury and comfort around you, then this is a good bet for you. The beautiful private cottage still features Maasai culture throughout, but has a more private feel to it, with an ensuite and private terrace. They make your stay extra special by adding in robes, slippers, and bath products, plus they offer the option for you to have a candlelit dinner on the private terrace, whilst watching the sunset.
Tent Camping
Those who enjoy camping will love this option, with the camp providing all the camping equipment for your stay, including large tents, mattresses, and bedding. Guests can use the shared bathroom on site and this option ties into their full board meal package. You can also enjoy all of the Maasai activities on offer, which are included.
Self Camping
If you’d like to provide your own tent, then this place can also simply act as a campground. You’ll have to bring your own cooking equipment and food, but you can use their shared toilets/showers, and campfire and get involved in all of the Maasai cultural activities on offer. The grounds at the camp are secure, with their 24-hour security team.
Olpul Bush Camping
(More on this below under ‘Activities on Offer’)
Washing facilities
On-site, are separate female and male flushing toilets/shower blocks, with refreshing showers, which are fed by lovely warm water from their local hot spring. Thirty minutes prior to wishing to take a shower, we told the staff and they kindly went to the spring with water canisters and collected the hot water for us to use. We had to wait for around 15 minutes for the water to cool down to a temperature suitable to shower in, but the whole thing worked like clockwork and was very refreshing, especially after our safari day, when we got back to camp rather dusty. They also have sink stations set up around the camp, where guests can use hot water and soap to clean their hands if needed.
On one day Carmen was asking us for a bath, so the camp did their best to accommodate and gave us a large washing-up bowl, which they filled with warm water. Job done, she absolutely loved it!
Food and drink options
The camp offers a mix of European and African cuisine and we were particularly impressed with this aspect of our stay. Prior to arriving, we were a little concerned about the food options that were going to be available to us, as travelling with a toddler can be testing at meal times if the food is spicy or really different from what she is used to eating. We prudently packed a few child-friendly pouches of Ella’s Kitchen dishes but didn’t resort to these, as the food served to us was nothing short of a delight. Dishes were simple, in the sense that the ingredients they used to cook with were mostly vegetables, rice, and local produce, however, all foods were delicious and so child friendly. Carmen went to bed each night with a full tummy and we all awoke the following morning eager to tuck into pancakes with honey, eggs cooked to taste omelettes, and a huge selection of fresh tropical fruits.
On offer throughout the day was mineral water, but also piping hot canisters of spiced chai and hot chocolate. At 5 o’clock daily we all gathered for biscuits and popcorn which was a lovely touch, especially for little madam, who filled her cheeks to the max!
Activities on offer
There are so many interesting activities to do to enable guests to expand their knowledge of the Maasai way of life and their ancient culture:
Olpul Bush Camping
Besides the option to stay in the main camp, guests can also have the exciting chance to sleep for one night in an authentic sacred bush camp, situated in the Loita Plains, 1.5 hours walk from the camp. There is the option to either sleep in one of their tents around the campfire or on a traditional Maasai bed, made from soft leaves, right under the stars. The evening is full of experiencing traditional stories and songs, sung by the Maasai warriors and around the campfire, where they share with you their local brew. There are trained Maasai Warriors who guard the camp at night, so guests can relax and sleep well.
Due to the walk from Maji Moto Maasai Cultural Camp to the bush camp being quite lengthy for a toddler to undertake, not to mention, we were a little worried about Carmen disturbing other guests in the night if we had camped with them, we had in fact ruled out the option to experience the bush camp. This was until Salaton and Susan arranged the nicest surprise for us. They kindly drove the three of us out to meet the other guests at the bush camp, giving us the incredible opportunity of joining in the initial part of the night, prior to all camp guests bedding down to sleep on their leafy mattresses. At this point, we were instead driven back to our cosy Manyatta by the team, at around 9.30 pm, just in time to get Carmen back for a good night’s sleep.
The bush camp we participated in was a night like no other, literally one of the most fascinating experiences we have ever had in all of our years of travelling.
It started by being taught to light a fire with the natural method of stick rubbing, and even Carmen gave this her best shot, being encouraged by Salaton who was a natural with her. Camp members then had the option of witnessing the slaughter of a goat for dinner, which is a big honour on behalf of the guests in Maasai culture. I (Mrs Vine) personally opted to make myself and Carmen scarce, for personal reasons, but Mr Vine did inform me it was nice to know the goat had lived a healthy life roaming the plains with its shepherd and the warriors used literally every part of the animal with no wastage, even it’s bones were cooked into a broth. Within 20 minutes of being slaughtered, the goat was cooking on the fire in prep for dinner.
The night continued to evolve, with a rich cultural performance of Maasai chants and songs around the campfire, which we all were encouraged to get involved in. Facing alternately in the four compass directions, the warriors showed homage and respect to their ancestors, before moving around the campfire in a circular motion, chanting over a chorus of deep guttural growls and piercing shrieks “Ooh- oyeeh.” I can clearly remember peering down at Carmen as we moved around the campfire, seeing the deep red glow from the flames casting shadows across her tiny face, her bright eyes transfixed on the warriors, fully in awe of their strong energy and presence. That powerful memory will live on.
Masai Mara safari
Our incredible Masai Mara safari was organised through Maji Moto Maasai Cultural Camp. Read all about it in detail here.
Warrior training
Here the Maasai Warriors will teach you combat skills, in the form of a game, which we participated in and found so much fun. Carmen wasn’t allowed to participate, due to her age, but she watched from a safe distance next to Susan. We were each given a wooden shield, and a handful of flexible green sticks, and were separated into opposite teams. The objective was to throw the sticks at our opponents, wielding them as fast as possible, and to try and block incoming shots with our shields. We were impressed by the Maasai warriors, whose training in this sport made them the ultimate throwing machines, but luckily, they didn’t aim any speedy shots at us, only each other.
Off-road adventures
The camp has a few options for those who like an adrenaline-fuelled activity. You can choose from either cycling or riding in a Polaris RZR Dune Buggy, or Boda Boda (motorbike), around the Loita plains and Masai Mara. This will give you the opportunity to see wildlife and the locals on the adventure.
Maji Moto Hot Springs
Guests can visit the hot springs to bathe and relax. Note however that the water is rather hot, and we found we could only stand in it for a few seconds, so be mindful of testing first, if you’re visiting with kids.
Nature walks
All around the camp, there are lots of beautiful walks that guests can go on with the Maasai team, which ventures across the Loita hills. There they can teach you all about the land, from the plants that the Maasai tribe uses, to how to track the wildlife around you.
Community projects
Women’s Village
Set on Salatons land is also the ‘Women’s Village,’ a place created to help protect vulnerable women, who may have been either rescued from early marriage, widowed, or are living with AIDS. The village has grown to care for over 40 women, who are supported by the cultural camp and given work opportunities and can benefit from vital support services. We learned that in Maasai culture if a woman outlives her husband, which is a common occurrence in Maasai marriage, the woman is not permitted to remarry again, so all of the intensive work that the Maasai husband would traditionally do is then passed onto his wife in order to survive. Due to it being common for a Maasai man to have more than one wife, his death therefore negatively impacts numerous women. Salaton, who created this village, has subsequently given these women a strong support network being united with one another, and with the opportunity to make and sell their beautifully beaded Maasai jewellery, to all visitors staying at the camp, they have a regular way of earning money.
We were invited to the Woman’s Village, and shown their beautiful jewellery, where we bought a range of pieces to take home with us. There was no pressure to buy anything at all, but their work was honestly so pretty we couldn’t resist.
Enkiteng Lepa Primary School
This school, co-founded by Salaton, acts as a place of sanctuary for vulnerable Maasai children, granting them a subsidised education, provided on a scholarship basis. The school is a rich melting pot, successfully merging modern Kenyan education with Maasai traditions and culture, which has had a positive impact on hundreds of Maasai children.
Although not having the chance to visit this nearby school as the children had broken up for the school holiday, we learned many things about this wonderful place and had a chance to meet some of the children living in the village, who attend the school. Carmen was welcomed into their games, playing with them, and soon enough, my PE teacher ways emerged, building an assault course for them out of nearby logs and rocks, which kept them happily entertained.
Community Health
The camp supports the welfare of its local people, making contributors to assist with medical support and the community’s health, due to many locals not being able to travel to the nearest medical facility.
Sustainable Conservation
Salaton has also created the Medungi Foundation, which meaning translates as ‘don’t cut.’ This name perfectly represents its prime importance, in protecting the land including all the trees and plants used for medicine. The foundation also trains members of the community in wildlife conservation and guiding.
A special thanks…
A special thanks goes out to Salaton, Susan, and the whole team at Maji Moto Maasai Cultural Camp, for welcoming us so warmly, looking after us so well, and taking the time to teach us the wonders of their world, through the eyes of the Maasai. We will never forget this phenomenal experience and greatly urge you to visit this special place as soon as you can. Hand on heart, travel experiences don’t get any better!
